TT& TC 3rd year Fabric Structure (Basic Weaves)
Representation of woven structure on graph paper:
In representing weave on graph paper each distance between the two vertical lines represents one warp thread and the distance between two horizontal lines represents one weft thread.
Small squares illustrates the place where certain warp threads meets with certain weft thread. Thus the square marked ‘a’ will indicate the interlacement of warp thread no.1 with 1st pick, mark ‘b’will indicate the interlacement of warp thread no. 2 with 1st pick. like wise mark ‘g’will indicate the interlacement of warp thread no. 3 with 2nd pick and so on.
Different kinds of graph paper used in designing
The proper selection of graph paper is ascertained by the no. of warp and weft threads required per inch in the finished fabric. For example a fabric of 80 EPI and 120 PPI will require a graph of corresponding proportion or as 80 is to 120 = 8x12, similarly EPI= 80 & PPI= 60 will require a 8x6 graph paper.
Indication of any kind in a certain square inside the repeat of the weave upon the graph paper mean warp up , and squares left empty inside the repeat of the weave on graph paper mean weft up in its corresponding position in the fabric.
Basic Fabric Structure ( Weaves)
There are three basic weaves.
Plain Weave
Twill Weave
Satin Weave
All other Structures are a variation or a combination of these weaves.
Description:Plain Weave
Plain weave is the most basic of three fundamental types of weaves.It is strong and hard-wearing, used for fashion and furnishing fabrics. In plain weave, the warp and weft are aligned so they form a simple criss-cross pattern. Each weft thread crosses the warp threads by going over one, then under the next, and so on. The next weft thread goes under the warp threads that its neighbor went over, and vice versa. Terms as tabby, Calico, alpaca, and taffeta are applied to plain cloth.
Fabrics produced on plain weave base
Some examples of plain weave fabrics with different textures are
Chiffon fill a fill
Organdy seersuckers
Taffeta plaids
Lawn muslin
Voile plain sheeting
Cotton Checks
Method-I Converting 3/3 Twill into zig-zag twill
Thumb rules for making satin weave
In representing weave on graph paper each distance between the two vertical lines represents one warp thread and the distance between two horizontal lines represents one weft thread.
Small squares illustrates the place where certain warp threads meets with certain weft thread. Thus the square marked ‘a’ will indicate the interlacement of warp thread no.1 with 1st pick, mark ‘b’will indicate the interlacement of warp thread no. 2 with 1st pick. like wise mark ‘g’will indicate the interlacement of warp thread no. 3 with 2nd pick and so on.
Different kinds of graph paper used in designing
The proper selection of graph paper is ascertained by the no. of warp and weft threads required per inch in the finished fabric. For example a fabric of 80 EPI and 120 PPI will require a graph of corresponding proportion or as 80 is to 120 = 8x12, similarly EPI= 80 & PPI= 60 will require a 8x6 graph paper.
Indication of any kind in a certain square inside the repeat of the weave upon the graph paper mean warp up , and squares left empty inside the repeat of the weave on graph paper mean weft up in its corresponding position in the fabric.
Basic Fabric Structure ( Weaves)
There are three basic weaves.
Plain Weave
Twill Weave
Satin Weave
All other Structures are a variation or a combination of these weaves.
Description:Plain Weave
Plain weave is the most basic of three fundamental types of weaves.It is strong and hard-wearing, used for fashion and furnishing fabrics. In plain weave, the warp and weft are aligned so they form a simple criss-cross pattern. Each weft thread crosses the warp threads by going over one, then under the next, and so on. The next weft thread goes under the warp threads that its neighbor went over, and vice versa. Terms as tabby, Calico, alpaca, and taffeta are applied to plain cloth.
Fabrics produced on plain weave base
Some examples of plain weave fabrics with different textures are
Chiffon fill a fill
Organdy seersuckers
Taffeta plaids
Lawn muslin
Voile plain sheeting
Cotton Checks
Fancy effects produced with the plain weave:
There are lot of methods of ornamenting and varying the structure of plain weave.
1. Threads which are different in color, material, thickness or twist are combined,
2. The number of threads per dent of the reed, or picks in a given space is varied.
3. The ends are brought from two or more warp beams which are differently tensioned.
4. By means of specially shaped reeds which rises and falls the threads are caused to form Zig-Zag lines in the cloth.
5. By the process of dyeing, printing and finishing.
Twill weave
Twill weave produce diagonal lines in the cloth. In simple twills point of intersection move one out ward and one upward on succeeding picks. Twill weave can be made on any number of threads that exceeds two. Twill lines are formed on both sides of the cloth and direction of the lines may be right or left. Twill weaves enables greater weight, closer setting, and better draping quality than plain weave in the cloth.
Popular Twill fabrics
Serge
Denim
Cashmere
Cashmere
Drill
Gabardine
blanket
Satin & sateen Weave
The term satin is used for warp face structure and sateen is used for weft face structure. In pure sateen and satin weaves there is one interlacing for each warp yarn and only one interlacing for each weft yarn in each repeat of the weave. This result in production of fabrics with a maximum degree of smoothness and luster and without any prominent weave effect.
Buckskin, Venetian, and damask are fabrics made on satin structures
Buckskin, Venetian, and damask are fabrics made on satin structures
Plain weave derivative
Matt, basket or Hopsack weave:
Basket weave is made by extending the plain weave both vertically and horizontally so that in both directions there are two or more threads working together in the same order. When the groups of yarns are equal, the basket weave is termed regular, otherwise it is termed irregular.
The two by two (2x2) basket weave is the most common. In this weave as given below the warp yarns in pairs interlace in plain weave order with the weft yarns in pairs. The weave repeats on four ends and four picks, and require only two heald frames to make.
The two by two (2x2) basket weave is the most common. In this weave as given below the warp yarns in pairs interlace in plain weave order with the weft yarns in pairs. The weave repeats on four ends and four picks, and require only two heald frames to make.
Rib Weaves
Rib weaves are usually made by having two or more warp yarns together, inter- lacing as one yarn with the individual weft yarns, or two or more weft yarns together, interlacing as one yarn with individual warp yarns. The groups of yarns interlace in plain weave order with the single yarns. Fabrics with a rib weave are reversible unless one side is made the face by finishing or printing.
Warp Rib Weave:
Warp ribs are produced by extending the plain weave vertically.
Ornamenting warp rib:
The warp ribs can be emphasized even more strongly by the use of alternate coarse and fine ends, slack and tight ends, and Thick and fine picks as shown in Figure A, B, and C
Weft Rib Weave:
Weft ribs are produced by extending the plain weave horizontally.
Twill weave
Twill weave produce diagonal lines in the cloth. Twill weave can be made on any number of threads that exceeds two. Twill lines are formed on both sides of the cloth and direction of the lines may be right or left.
Twill Angle:
Twill angle is the angle which is produced by twill line with respect to the horizontal line. This twill angle depends on following factors.
1. Ratio between EPI and PPI.
1. Ratio between EPI and PPI.
2. Difference between warp and weft count.
3. Rate of advancement it interlacement warp and weft.
Twill weave derivative
Zigzag or waved twill
Warp face & weft face & balanced twill
Steep or elongated twill
Herringbone twill
Reverse twill
Broken twill
Mixed twill
Combining twills –end to end pick to pick
Fancy twills
Transposed or re arranged twill
Diamond and diaper twill designs
Zigzag or waved twill –
The simplest forms of modified twill is the waved twill achieved by reversing the direction of the twill at suitable intervals. The reversal can occur either upon a warp direction in which case horizontal wave is produced , or upon a weft pick which results in a vertical weave or a zig-zag effect . The horizontal wave effects are economically produced in point drafts and good styles may be woven on few healds. The vertical line effects, however mostly require dobby shedding motion, because of comparatively large number of picks in the lifting plan.
Method-I Converting 3/3 Twill into zig-zag twill
1 2 3 4 5 6 5 4 3 2 In Horizontal direction In Vertical direction
2
Herringbone Twill -
These twills, also depend upon the reversal of the direction to achieve the desired effect . The twill does not come to a point where it changes the direction but instead one twill line is said to cut into the other at the point of reversal . The following design shows construction of 2 and 2 herringbone twill which runs from left to right for the desired number of ends (8) where upon the reversal of direction takes place by introducing on the 9th end, the mark which are exactly opposite to those of the 8th end .
(b) Reverse Twill –
In this weave the number of threads in warp & weft of one repeat remains same in the design . In the following design one repeat of design has 8 threads in warp & weft. Reverse twill design should have same number of threads in face & back i.e. 2/2 ,3/3 , 4/4 etc.
Broken Twill - It is produced by breaking a regular twill.
Mixed Twill –
This has been developed by combining the two regular twill designs. This can be of two types. The first is warp mixed twill weave and second is weft mixed twill weave. One twill say ‘A’ is first indicated on the odd vertical spaces and to complete the design, twill ‘B’ is indicated on the even vertical spaces . Each twill must be carried out on 6 ends and picks and hence the design ‘C’ consist of 6 threads of ‘A’ and 6 threads of ‘B’ and thus repeats on 12 ends and 6 picks .
Diamond Twill -
Diamond weave is symmetrical about their vertical and horizontal axes which can be produced with the aid of point draft and vertical waved twilled peg-plan. True diamond shapes converge most designs of this type can be constructed economically on the pointed draft basis.
construction of a diamond design based upon 3/ 3 twill weave is given below:
construction of a diamond design based upon 3/ 3 twill weave is given below:
Diaper Weave
Diaper weaves are symmetrical about their diagonal axes, these are based on herringbone draft and vertical waved twilled peg-plan.
Satin & sateen Weave
The term satin is used for warp face structure and sateen is used for weft face structure. In pure sateen and satin weaves there is one interlacing for each warp yarn and only one interlacing for each weft yarn in each repeat of the weave.
This will result in production of fabrics with a maximum degree of smoothness and luster and without any prominent weave effect.
This will result in production of fabrics with a maximum degree of smoothness and luster and without any prominent weave effect.
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